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When compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family completely surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.